Lanoguard Chassis Undersealing
STANDARD LANOLIN UNDERSEALING STARTS AT £350 PLUS VAT FOR CLASSIC VW BUSES. WE CARRY OUT UNDERSEALING ON ALL TYPES OF CLASSIC CARS AND MODERN VEHICLES. GET IN TOUCH TODAY!
WHY UNDERSEAL, AND WHY USE LANOLIN?
Protecting your vehicle’s chassis from rust and corrosion is one of the smartest ways to preserve its value, safety, and longevity. At VW Engineering Ltd, based on the West Sussex–Hampshire border, we are experienced in lanolin-based undersealing treatments designed for the UK’s harsh, salt-laden climate.
Unlike traditional bitumen or oil based wax coatings that harden, crack, and allow rust to creep and develop unseen underneath the coating, lanolin remains flexible and self-healing. It forms a smothering, water-repellent barrier that prevents moisture and oxygen from ever reaching the treated area. Existing corrosion can be stopped in its tracks if it is freed from salt contamination and then fully encapsulated in Lanolin. Even if scratched, lanolin seals itself, and continues to protect. It is safe and beneficial when applied over rubber. It does not mask problem areas like the thick claggy oil based Shutz products do. And it is far easier to remove if restoration repairs need to be undertaken. We like the way it can be used to protect brake hoses and pipes without masking any dangerous splits or corrosion. It is Ideal for both classic vehicles and daily-driven modern vehicles. Our undersealing process provides long-term rust protection that outperforms conventional underseal.
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We have done much comparison and research in recent years as to which products perform the best. We were solely using Lanoguard for a time, and for the most part were satisfied with it, although, we noticed that its quite a thin product that needs to be topped up yearly, and its most likely designed that way so that it can be applied by the average man in his garage with simple trigger sprayer bottle. We also find Lanoguard to be quite sticky when it’s set. This causes it to be a bit of a dirt attractant. However, we also became aware of the range of Lanolin products by Bilt Hamber. We saw that the Dynax-S50 coating underwent a rugged independent salt spray test and out performed market leaders by an incredible margin. (Lanoguard wasn’t tested in this salt spray test)
To see the impressive salt spray test results of Bilt Hamber Dynax-S50, click here:
https://bilthamber.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/PG-BH13-001.pdf
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Stops rust from progressing – even on already corroded surfaces
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Flexible, self-healing, and never cracks or traps moisture
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Safe on rubber pipes, hoses, and brake lines
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Easy to remove for future restoration work
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Long-lasting results with minimal yearly maintenance
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Ideal for classic VW Type 2s and modern daily drivers
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Available in transparent or dark coloured formulations
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Can be used on roof gutters (VW T2)
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STAGE 1 - BOX SECTIONS BLOW-THROUGH AND LANOLIN INJECTION
The first stage of our Lanogard undersealing process begins with injecting Lanogard cavity wax or Dynax S50, depending on customer preference, into all the box sections, jacking points, outriggers, and top hat floor supports. On classic VW Type 2 campervans and similar vehicles, these internal structures are especially prone to corrosion because they trap moisture and are slow to dry once wet. We carry out this cavity wax injection first, before any undersealing or pressure washing, because the cleaning stage involves using very high-pressure water to remove road grime, old coatings, and salt deposits. That water inevitably finds its way into box sections and closed cavities, and we never want to apply lanolin-based waxes to damp or wet areas. By sealing and protecting these sections first, and allowing the wax overnight to set up, we create a moisture-repellent barrier inside these areas, before we pressure wash the underside.
STAGE 2 - PRESSURE CLEANING
Here you can see the wheel arch in its untouched state, showing just how much dirt, road salt, and grime can build up over time. Many vehicles also arrive with old bitumen-based underseal in varying states of condition. When this coating becomes brittle or cracked, it can no longer protect the chassis effectively. During our high-pressure cleaning process, sometimes, depending on its condition, much of this loose material can be blasted away — but where it remains firmly adhered, mechanical scraping may be required. Any fissures left in deteriorated bitumen coatings will trap moisture, preventing the lanolin from bonding properly and allowing corrosion to take hold beneath the surface. Sometimes the condition of the underseal shutz is well adhered and in tact, and in this case, it is ok to overcoat in Lanolin, and the Lanolin will prevent the shutz underseal from drying out further.
STAGE 3 - ASSESSMENT
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With the chassis now pressure-washed, we can see the metalwork in its true condition. This stage often reveals hidden corrosion that was previously concealed under old coatings or layers of grime. At this point, we carry out a full visual inspection and consult with the customer, sharing photos where necessary so they can clearly see the condition of their vehicle.
Depending on what we find, the customer may choose to proceed with full lanolin undersealing or to leave certain areas untreated for future repair work. For example, it may be sensible to leave a jacking point or sill section bare if repairs are planned later, rather than having to remove fresh underseal soon after application. There are other treatments that can be spoken about at this moment, such as the application of a rust converter to stabilise the rusty surfaces. We always take this opportunity to make sure the customer is informed and understands the next steps before the protection process continues.
STAGE 4 - CHEMICAL CLEANING AND SALT REMOVAL
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Once the chassis has been pressure washed to remove heavy dirt and loose debris, we move on to a full chemical cleaning process. This involves applying specialist degreasers and salt removers to strip away any remaining road film, oil, and contamination. Removing road salts is critical to preventing corrosion and ensuring maximum adhesion of the lanolin underseal. By leaving the chassis completely degreased and salt-free, we create the perfect surface for long-lasting rust protection and lanolin undercoating performance.
Once the surfaces are thoroughly rinsed, we dry the whole underside of the vehicle, using multiple powerful high volume fans.
The final stage is the application of a premium lanolin underseal. We recommend that a thicker grade is applied to exposed exterior surfaces, while a thinner, more penetrative formula is injected into cavities and seams. Lanolin’s natural properties create a flexible, moisture-resistant barrier that doesn’t crack, peel, or trap water — even after years of use. The result is a clean, rust-free chassis that stays protected through every season.
STAGE 5 - APPLICATION OF LANOLIN BASED COATING
LANOLIN
COATINGS OPTIONS
There are three varieties of Lanolin based Bilt Hamber underseal products that we use, as well as Lanoguard.
The one pictured here on the right is Dynax-UB. The photo is showing its appearance after one thick coat was applied over a white painted surface. It dries to a matt finish and is not tacky once dried. The other coatings are:
Dynax-UC.(transparent, and slightly softer once cured.
Dynax-SB (same colour as UB) A different thinner formulation specifically for cavity spray injection, with added corrosion inhibitors. This formulation is designed to creep into spot welded sandwich seams.
Alternatively, Lanoguard, leaves an attractive matt transparent finish. However it is quite tacky after drying and does readily attract dirt and grime. Lanoguard data sheets recommended that treated surfaces are to be topped up at least once a year.
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BILT HAMBER DYNAX-UC
In this picture, the front vent box on a type 2 Baywindow has been treated with Dynax-UC. Bilt Hambers transparent Lanolin underseal product, which is designed to be applied to bare metal or painted surfaces, anywhere where a discrete and powerful inhibitor is needed.
Dynax-UC is completely safe to use on the vast majority of paint coatings and is ideal where dark coloured waxes or underseal would detract from the painted finish of vehicle bodywork or underside. We use it over flange junctions, and seams in places like engine bay battery trays, inside the vehicle on panel walls, the lip of wheel arches, lower inner a-posts. Customers have requested we apply it to inside their gutters. This product is easy to remove if needed, by wiping off with white spirit or panel wipe.
